Since March 2022, Sri Lanka has been experiencing a major political, economic and social crisis. This has resulted in a series of protests against the government and its president Gotabaya Rajapaksa. Indeed, the management of the country and its resources has been conducted in a catastrophic way. The country is experiencing shortages of fuel and essential goods for everyday life.
The protesters have targeted members of Rajapaksa's family and government politicians. The government responded in an authoritarian manner by declaring a state of emergency, authorizing the arrest of civilians by the military, imposing curfews, restricting access to social media, and attacking protesters and journalists. The government's attempt to suppress the protests also violated the law and the constitution.
In this extremely tense political context, several countries have advised their nationals to avoid traveling to Sri Lanka. The tensions are palpable, the country is in great distress and inflation is unprecedented. It's true that when you put it that way, we weren't sure that staying there in 2023 would be an excellent idea, especially as a backpacker.
Then, by discussing with French people on the spot via social networks, we realize the media manipulation we are facing regarding the events. The Sri Lankan people are only victims of a defective government and they cruelly need tourism to boost their economy. So we say to ourselves: do we want to spend our savings on a country that is suffering? Isn't it also our responsibility to choose the countries we travel to?
It's decided, we went to Sri Lanka in a backpack for 2 weeks.
Daily inflation in Sri Lanka in 2023
When you arrive in Sri Lanka, you quickly realize the inflation of the prices. You just have to look on Google the old prices 9 months before to see it. On March 7th 2022 1$ was the equivalent of 200 LKR, today 1$ = 365 LKR. So their currency is not worth much anymore...
However, for a western tourist, it is still an affordable trip. Certainly, we will pay more than 1 year ago, but the prices remain relatively cheap. You can get decent accommodation for 15€ and eat well for 3€. The most expensive and complicated thing will be to move around the country because of the lack of petrol. But absolutely nothing is impossible: some trips are feasible by bus, and when it is not the case, you can choose a licensed driver who will know how to ration your money. Traveling by train is also an excellent way to visit Sri Lanka, with the mythical Kandy - Ella line. Speaking of which, we are preparing an article for you to learn how to get around in Sri Lanka!
Inflation is finally something that a simple tourist will not feel or only very little. It is really the Sri Lankan people who suffer daily and struggle to live decently. Here is the first argument to come and stay!
Tourism in Sri Lanka still shy in 2023
Bad luck for Sri Lanka, but a blessing for us: there are very few tourists. It is an exceptional opportunity to have so few people around. The activities and tourist sites are on a human scale and relatively calm. We could travel from day to day without booking anything weeks in advance.
The counterpart will be perhaps the lack of atmosphere for certain festive places or trendy restaurants. It is not rare to be very little at the restaurant table or in your hotel. But once again, it depends on the city: in the seaside resorts you will find a few more people if you feel the need for sociability, but nothing extravagant.
Finally, it is important to know that the Russian population has taken refuge in Sri Lanka, especially in the seaside resorts (Mirissa, Weligama, etc). Nothing very obvious, nor embarrassing, but this new tourism is slowly gaining ground: hotels, chic restaurants, and Russian SPAs are starting to emerge on the coast, creating a microcosm. It is another argument to make other tourists come back and to make their tourist tastes weigh in the balance!
Security in Sri Lanka in 2023
With all that we could read and hear about Sri Lanka, it is really the point to which we paid particular attention, especially as a backpacker. And once again, no serious problem to report, nor any feeling of insecurity.
As mentioned above, these are concerns that mainly affect Sri Lankans. Tourists can't feel the pressure of everyday life too much. Of course, you have to be careful with your stuff, avoid opulence and stay decent about your wealth. But it's like everywhere else it seems...
Here we were struck by the immense kindness of the Sri Lankans, who keep smiling despite these difficult and uncertain times. At no time did we feel in danger. The worst thing you can face is the little scams of everyday life: watch your currency, check the exchange rate and ask about the local prices. Backpacking is not a problem at all in Sri Lanka in 2023, and if needed you can use a guide to cross the country. We personally did not need one on our side, so it is possible.
Note that there is no curfew in effect anymore and that you are free to move around. And concerning the power cuts, they do exist but it is absolutely not disturbing. In fact, almost all businesses and hotels have generators and are prepared for this daily hassle. We saw some travel influencers complaining about these cuts being too annoying for their taste, we honestly did not understand too much...
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One can conclude that the decision is yours to leave or not in this context. There is no right choice and it is understandable that such a situation does not make you want to stay in Sri Lanka. However, we think that supporting a bad economy is a good action. And beyond all this context, Sri Lanka is a really beautiful country, with multiple landscapes, paradisiacal beaches, green mountains, and such a kind population...